24.3.08

Tibete



Não sou jornalista. Acrescento sempre palavras ao que vejo. E guardo outras, num recanto do meu egoísmo. Não acreditem no que escrevo, pensem apenas. Porque pode ser verdade.

Quem é que nunca sentiu a surpresa de uma notícia? Ou o susto de uma bomba de Carnaval? Ou encontrou um conhecido num lugar improvável? Ou se queimou, se arrependeu, pisou um buraco? Momentos… momentos… momentos… em que não temos tempo para controlar a parte de dentro do corpo. Era dia 10 de Março. E o maior desses momentos aconteceu. Descíamos a rua do Mosteiro de Drepung, com dezenas de monges, em debates e amizades criadas pelo puro acaso durante todo esse dia. Um falava sobre a importância da data, outro de liberdade, da vida, de estarem a um passo de ter voz. Apenas voz. Nem cabíamos dentro da pele. Os únicos diferentes do meio, mas no meio. Entre sorrisos vermelhos e vestidos de confiança, faláv… Sinto um braço a puxar-me, a rua bloqueada, e tanta gente. Polícias de choque, militares, camiões, um barulho confuso a impedir o caminho para Lassa. E um braço. A insistir, a puxar-me. Num segundo levou-nos para o outro lado da rua. Vi que era um polícia. Não podem estar aqui. Continuem a andar. Do outro lado os monges, num silêncio cada vez mais afastado. Mais carros, e homens, e carros, e homens. Sem farda. Fecharam as lojas, fecharam as casas. Voltaram. Tiraram as pessoas das casas. Continuem a andar. Ninguém olhava para trás. O medo envolvia os corpos. O que se passa? Responderam-nos: um fogo; exercícios… duas vozes fardadas. Queríamos voltar para trás. Já não conseguíamos ver as caras, apenas roupas vermelhas abafadas por uma força violenta. Armada.
Foi o início. Sabemos que muitos desses monges morreram no final desse dia.
Após quilómetros a andar por estradas de terra não batida, a tentar inventar ruelas que nos levassem a testemunhar a prepotência militar e policial sobre pessoas desarmadas, descobrimos o pior. A nossa impotência. O bloqueio estendia-se ao inimaginável, até nenhum som vindo do Mosteiro se conseguir ouvir. Máquinas fotográficas inspeccionadas ao milímetro, questionados ao milímetro, desde esse instante, controlados ao milímetro. Telefones, internet, conversas, gestos e decisões. Tínhamos sido as únicas testemunhas do início, da violência utilizada sem justificações de defesa, da experiência que demonstraram, da rapidez com que limparam o local de olhos e provas, da postura silenciosa daqueles monges. Os sete dias até à chegada ao Nepal, por terra, a dormir em pequenas aldeias no meio dos Himalaias, ficaram marcados pela tentativa de criar medo. Presos nos quartos, revistados, identificação constantemente exigida na estrada e após a única consulta do e-mail, as horas que passámos na fronteira… Mas não foi o que mais me assustou. Foi a certeza do que vi: o controlo do povo chinês e tibetano levado ao extremo por violência e impunidade; a quantidade sem fim de agentes à paisana ou pessoas que a troco de uns sapatos novos falam do que se passa na casa ao lado; o medo; a propaganda; a confissão assustada de que a falta de direitos humanos ultrapassa o não ter pão. Aqui morre-se por ter opinião.

Tudo o resto que vivi no Tibete ultrapassa um texto legível… por enquanto. Mas tenho voz. E não me esqueço.

Texto: Clara Faria Piçarra
Fotografia (tirada instantes antes): Miguel Sacramento

138 comentários:

Nélinha disse...

Olá!
O texto já me era familiar; quanto às imagens - que paz, que harmonia nelas transparece!Como tudo pode ser tão volátil!
Os beijinhos nunca são demais, pois não? Aqui vão eles!
Nélinha

alf disse...

Bem, não querias ficar a conhecer só um lado da natureza humana, pois não?

Que a próxima experiência enriquecedora não te cause um aperto na alma mas a encha de alegria!

Fenrisar disse...

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Anónimo disse...

Alf, e tu estavas a te preocupar pela viagem pelo Estreito de Magalhães, no Sul.... né?

Eu também sou da ideia que a comida que lhe falta à alma é mais difícil de achar que o alimento para o corpo.

A expressão da palavra, do pensamento é que não pode faltar nem minguar.

Mas vocês estão ainda na rota. E como ben disseste, Clara... ainda tens o dom da fala. És livre.

Beijão e abraço de Argentina. Carinhos de todos por aqui. Ficaram muito tristes ao saber de vocês... Eu já enviei notícias para um amigo fotógrafo e jornalista da Italia e para outros amigos, que multiplicarão o repúdio.

Um abraço fofo e enorme,
Laura

Joao Massapina disse...

Obrigado por este momento de liberdade e democracia.

Um abraço

João Massapina

Mitó disse...

Clara e Miguel:
Ainda bem que temos o vosso testemunho, nunca calem o que viram.
Aquele energúmeno que comentou no Miniscente não conta!

"Não há machado que corte
A raíz ao pensamento,
Não há morte para o vento,
Não há morte ..."

Beijo para os dois.
Mitó (amiga da Clara Gomes)

Cláu disse...

Desde setembro que sou uma leitora assidua deste blog...o entusiasmo com que a minha Anocas fala dos seus primos, e aquela pontinha de inveja (desculpem) pela vossa aventura (e mais que tudo pela vossa coragem), tornou-me "viciada nesta viagem".
A vergonha e o facto de não nos conhecermos fez com que nunca comentasse nenhuma das magnificas fotos que me levam para longe ou algum dos textos que me deixam sem palavras por dizerem (de forma maravilhosa) tudo o que há para dizer (ou tudo o que pode ser dito, porque às vezes as palavras não bastam).
Mas hoje é diferente. É diferente porque sobre este tema já há muitas vozes caladas. É diferente porque este tema me chama a atenção, me interessa. É diferente porque sim.
Queria agradecer-te(vos)por teres voz, mas acima de tudo por gritares quando outros calam. O que se passa no Tibete é horrivel, inhumano, e ultrapassa a minha capacidade de compreensão.
Vivemos centrados no nosso umbigo e esquecemo-nos que as violações de direitos humanos são universais, que acontecem por todas partes (em algumas de forma mais intensa, como tão bem descreves), que todos somos responsaveis, que todos somos responsáveis quando deixamos que se cometam violações, quando fingimos não ver ou quando nos calamos.
Obrigada por nos contares o que não nos contam quando nos sentamos no sofá a ver as noticias ou quando apoiamos ou consentimos que alguns países façam o que querem sem qualquer impedimento ou limitação.

Espero que a vossa viagem continue a correr bem, que vejam muito mais mundo e nos contem muito mais mundo.

Beijinhos,

Cláu

indomável disse...

Minha borboleta,

dormi mal a pensar em ti, em vós...
Não vou mentir, foi mais em ti...
comentei no conforto da minha cama com o Paulo - que terrivel corte de asas a uma borboleta tão voadora...
E o sentimento e o pesadelo que foi... terrivel...
Dormi mal, a pensar no perigo que correram e depois dei por mim com vergonha do pensamento... se vocês viveram um perigo, que diria dos monges e das pessoas que têm que viver com essa realidade. Pensei ainda que quem vai de fora sente mais, não estamos habituados a que nos calem, estamos habituados a gritar quando nos apetece e por vezes insensatamente querermos limitar essa liberdade em nome de outros valores que são tão pequenos quando comparados com ela - a liberdade!
Dormi mal... mas dormi. Quantos que conheceste terão ficado sem dormir? quantos terão morrido?
Levando em conta a espiritualidade tibetana o seu caminho ficou mais curto e terão agora que voltar a fazer o mesmo caminho para subir mais um degrau na sua ascensão espiritual...
Mas sabes? O orgulho adou lá no meio dos demais sentimentos... orgulhosa de ti e do Miguel por não calarem, orgulho sobretudo pela raça humana e que é capaz do pior mas também do melhor. Todos sabemos que fazemos coisas terriveis em nome dos nossos direitos, mas há também coisas maravilhosas. Lutar pela nossa voz pode ser a morte do nosso corpo mas calar é a morte do nosso espirito e isso sabiam-no bem esses monges e essas pessoas que estiveram dispostas a morrer pela sua liberdade!
Ao papagaio do miniscente já dei a minha resposta, mas adiantava-lhe mais esta - a China nega o massacre de Tiannanmen e ameaça quem quer que seja que lhe faça menção e agora? Será que esse senhor tem a coragem de nos dizer que Tiannanmen foi uma invenção? que foram os manifestantes quem provocou a sua propria morte, ou talvez até nem tenha morrido ninguém e fossem apenas actores contratados para encenar a sua morte para estrangeiro ver?

A tua volta ao mundo, minha borboleta, serve-me como fuga, como terra de sonhos, como grito de liberdade... mas muitas vezes é onde venho chorar a saudade também...
O aperto no coração é bem real, a preocupação por vós...
Além do mais, também encontro aqui os amigos do outro lado do mundo... olá Argentina...
Até já minha querida, dá um abraço ao Miguel, tá?
Beijos quentes e grandes
Patricia

Álvaro disse...

Um fortuito acaso trouxe-nos a este espaço da blogosfera. Através das imagens, voltamos a encontrar aquela menina de olhar sereno e meigo sorriso - a campeã Clara Piçarra que tivemos o prazer de conhecer nas lides desportivas, há poucos anos atrás.
Parabéns Clara e Miguel por este emocionado e emocionante texto. Obrigado por este grito de liberdade, como alguém muito bem escreveu no comentário anterior!

Álvaro

Nélinha disse...

Tenho estado a conter-me mas começo a cansar-me dos pseudo comentários que nada dizem de um tal Luis. Este blog - o ciberdiário de uma volta ao mundo - tem primado pela partilha de uma experiência única através de fotos e textos belíssimos. Insere-se num projecto humanista que tem por objectivo "Conhecer a liberdade por dentro, “enquanto houver estrada para andar, enquanto houver ventos e mar...”.(...)Contar a história das nossas maravilhas do mundo. O nosso Património da Humanidade.Como pensam as pessoas na Patagónia, como sentem as pedras da muralha da China, como pescam na Indonésia, como vivem no Laos, na Tanzânia, no Tibete? Que histórias têm para contar?" E é isso que tem sido feito com lisura. O episódio do Tibete, fazendo parte da viagem não podia, nem devia, ser ignorado. O Miguel e a Clara não são jornalista. São dois cidadãos do mundo íntegros, pensantes, solidários, altruístas, incapazes de pactuar com qualquer injustiça, defensores dos direitos humanos. Logo,não podiam calar o seu testemunho. É dito pelo Miguel algures no seu blog:
"Prometi a mim mesmo que nunca escreveria sobre política neste espaço. Pelos riscos que tal implica, pela falta de privacidade, pela falta de intimidade, por não me conhecerem bem, por ser mal interpretado, para não ser descontextualizado ou mal citado, pela falta de um olhar à minha frente." Às vezes há momentos em que as promessas têem de se quebrar. Episodicamente. Com coragem.
Como diz a Clara, não vamos esquecer. Mas andemos em frente! Há ainda tanto caminho a percorrer!

Anónimo disse...

Estou agora à espera de um próximo escrito teu já depois de reflectido tudo o que se passou no Tibete.Mas não há dúvida que quem passa por isso,mesmo observando,deve ficar a perceber melhor ainda o valor da democracia e da liberdade,em contraponto com ditaduras de tipo fascista muito violentas como a do partido chinês.Como dizia Churchill,a democracia é o «pior de todos os sistemas, à excepção de todos os outros!». Um grande beijão para ti,Clara, um grande abraço para o Miguel. E força e muita coragem.Sempre! Mário P.

GoVeRi disse...

história arrepiante para imagens belíssimas...

espero que esteja bem e obrigado pelo relato...

cima disse...

...sem comentarios...
Nao nos calaremos...Free Tibet.

Grupo de Apoio ao Tibete disse...

Escrevam mais acerca do que se passou, é muito importante !
Abraços amigos

conceição disse...

li a vossa entrevista ao publico e ao canal palyul. obrigado pelo relato...e boa viagem.

Anónimo disse...

...É importante que não esqueçam o que viram, mas mais importante ainda é que não calem as palavras!!!Porque têm sido tão poucas e ficam perdidas no vento...!

Carla

Juanna disse...

Clara.. as tuas palavras de "não jornalista" deixaram-me sem expressão.. apenas com sensações.. sentimentos.. de impotencia, como dizes..
Um beijinhu muito grande aos dois (dividam-no bem!! rsrs :P)
Ju

FPG disse...

Queridos,
Já me tinha amaldiçoado não sei quantas vezes por vos ter recomendado Abril/Maio.
Fico tão feliz por saber que estiveram lá! E que ainda
conheceram/viveram Sera, aquele mosteiro mágico...
Só me entristece que para as Histórias do Mundo vocês tenham sido testemunhas de mais momentos tão vergonhosos para a memória dos Homens, e tão dolorosos para esses maravilhosos Povo e Terra que, um dia, espero possam venham a ser Livres!
Apesar de os cruzeiros na Grécia se confirmarem, a casa e a Matilha
Amestrada continuam à vossa espera em Macau.
Bjo (e muitas lambidelas)

rouxinol de Bernardim disse...

Infelizmente essa realidade é abominável. A China é desprezível em tanto do que vai fazendo que ainda mantém a hediondez dos colonizadores mais aberrantes.

Oxalá esta tomada de consciência possa mudar algo. Por pouco que seja.

Martinha disse...

ola, sou uma estudante de ciência politica e relações internacionais. Estou agora a fazer um trabalho para o curso, precisamente sobre a questão Tibetana. Enviaram-me o vosso e-mail, e decidi vir ver o blog. Fiquei abismada com a sensibilidade que trataram esta questão tão importante. Passei a tarde de hoje a ler resoluções da ONU sobre o Tibete... e enfim, é triste em 60 anos nada ter mudado.
Se não se importassem gostava de usar o vosso texto no meu trabalho. Acham que pode ser?

Obrigado e bem haja!

Marta Domingues
(scorpion_girl_24@hotmail.com)

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